Alla Lanterna In Fano

02/06/2026: Osteria Zanchetti in Fossombrone reveals itself as one of those taut human works of architecture where the design is noble, the intentions lofty, but the end result remains suspended in limbo, delicious but lacking the strength to truly captivate the heart. The style reflects the classic and rigorous orthodoxy of a Slow Food philosophy, moving within a space where time slows. The atmosphere is pleasant, intimate, and genuinely welcoming, enhanced by the courteous and attentive presence of its host. Outside, a beautiful courtyard opens up, a small open-air theater that, unfortunately, a sudden downpour made unusable just moments before our arrival. So we take refuge inside: a small, almost intimate space, yet pervaded by a sincere warmth. The welcome begins with a soft glass of pleasant rosé, offered to prepare the spirits for dinner, accompanied by their homemade bread, which, however, disappoints expectations and proves unpalatable. The local olive oil, served as a prelude, also proves to be of good quality but is lacking in character for those, like me, who seek a bold and vibrant statement in flavors. This oscillation between the subtle and the explicit is found throughout the menu, a score that alternates extremely delicate dishes with more vigorous bursts, in a transition that doesn't always find its perfect balance. The opening course is the Manza dell’oste, a variation of raw meat presented in three small piles, and the Apennine bison tataki. Both appetizers are meticulously crafted; they can't be described as bad, yet they lack the necessary spark to captivate the senses. The first courses are even more marked: the tacconi with creamed peas and Serra de' Conti grass peas are a decidedly disappointing and dull transition, while the hand-sealed cappelletti with caciotta cheese and black pepper are an excellent execution, a small masterpiece of balance and flavor. The same swing occurs with the main courses, where the baked quail expresses a delightful intensity, clearly superior to the rabbit loin in potacchio, which flows by without captivating. We're also in the middle of a rut when it comes to desserts. The Zeta Rocher, with its dark chocolate and toasted hazelnuts, is very good, dense, and satisfying, while the New York - Cantiano... via Pechino, an attempt at cheesecake with black cherries and ice cream, turns out to be a failed experiment. A special mention goes to the wine cellar, not monumental in size but structured with an excellent quality-price ratio; our red, enriched by a few months in barrique, held its own with fine personality. The true and unexpected final caress comes with the Treasure Chest: those chocolate pralines proved delicious, a sweet and refined farewell. Perhaps the expectations were too high, or perhaps the unstable alternation between intense flavors and overly subtle nuances confused the path. Four stars of encouragement for an experience that just needs a little more courage.

30/05/2026: An unexpected experience in a magical place nestled in the city streets. Attentive and attentive service, a good wine selection. The cuisine respects tradition but also gives a nod to modernity. The host's research and attention to detail in sourcing the finest ingredients are evident in his dishes. Highly recommended.