On Sunday, after the Requiem Service at Basilica San Marco, Lacrimosa still squeezing tears from my eyes, I unsuccessfully tried to have lunch at one of the countless trattorias in the area. I realized how slim my chances were when, after walking past a few crowded places, I saw a long but calm line of people waiting to be admitted into a trattoria. I took a photo of the line but did not record any distinctive details of the place.
I returned today for lunch but could no longer find the place for which dozens of people had chosen to wait in the rain for I'll never know what gastronomic experience. So I set a new goal: as much Tartuffo as I can afford to pay for.
This story is not about tartuffo—I just note that I had more tartuffo on my plate than I have eaten and smelled in my entire life so far, and that the place is called Ristorante Pizzeria Il Kaimano.
The waiter (il cameriere), Emilio, about whom a young Turkish tourist told his (international) friends that he was "a salesman with a capital ESSE" (well done!), strikes up a conversation with all passersbys, asking them "where are you coming from" and, depending on their answer, would say something in their language (after I told him I was from Romania, he said to me "Ce mai faci? Bine, bene"). Well, the waiter approaches a group of young men walking down the street and, based on hints from their conversation which, clearly, did not concern him, asks them "Where are you coming from? Spain?" "Peru!" shouts one, walking away. Now, seriously, what are the odds that, after having had the chance to be thrilled by the enthusiasm of a theater audience that applauded the Peruvian tenor (Juan Diego Florez), who, with his performance, once broke the taboo of no-encores established in this temple of art, Milan'S Teatro alla Scala, by one of the titans (Toscanini), in the cultural heart of Europe, while you are levitating in the afterglow of an undimenticabile lunch, you would cross paths with a
group of Peruvians, co-nationals of the divo? For all I know, he might have been in the group too. So, something I never do, I describe to the waiter (we have so much in common already) in a few words (I never forget that he is a busy man) the scene at the theater. At the table next to us sit a couple in their fifties. The lady asks me if I like opera. I reply, a bit emphatically, that this time I came to Milan mainly for that, and that, after last week's performance in which I witnessed that version of the prodigal son's return, tomorrow I will see Cosi fan Tutte. And,
believe or not, the lady tells me, in her precise English, that their daughter is to sing the role of Dorabella tomorrow and that she hopes we meet during the intermission. I didn't catch the daughter's name, something Germanic. "Unlikely," I reply, "but break a leg. I'll listen to her – from my gallery seat I couldn't claim I could WATCH her – thinking of you. You MUST be in heaven!" I add. She confirms.
The waiter, Emilio, intervenes and tells us that, at the beginning of his career, he worked in a restaurant in the shopping gallery between il Teatro and il Duomo. The head waiter told them they were supposed to know EVERYTHING about the operas in the repertoire. "Do you go often to La Scala?" I ask him after about an hour, when the pressure of social lunchtime hunger has eased a bit. "Nooo. My wife, invece, lives for it." But, if we have a choice, we go to Verona, to the Arenas.
i-iulian mircea
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04 Novembre 2025
10,0
I really can't understand the negative reviews at all. The food was absolutely delicious, so fresh and bursting with flavor! The pasta with truffles was especially divine. It did take a little while for the food to arrive, but it was totally worth the wait.
A particular highlight was Emilio, such an authentic, funny, and warm host! He truly made our evening special and created a wonderful atmosphere. We had a fantastic time and will definitely be back! 🙌
Lara Marixx
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03 Novembre 2025
10,0