22/05/2026: It was my first time in Lunigiana, and after browsing online, I decided to stop by Osteria della Bietola to try some traditional dishes. You'll enter this intimate, well-maintained, atmospheric restaurant. I found it beautiful. I ordered the local antipasto with artisanal cured meats from a local delicatessen. They were delicious, aromatic, and high-quality. Perhaps the prosciutto was a little below average compared to the others, but still good, no big deal. The focaccias were delicious, with the grains of salt on top giving them a noticeable kick. I wasn't thrilled with what I believe to be the Lunigiana filling, but the other three appetizers were top-notch. The potato and leek tart was very good, but the highlights were the chestnut patés with ricotta—sweet, enveloping, and creamy—and even more so the herb tart, which I'd never tried before but was truly delicious.
So, let's move on to the first course: testaroli with pesto. If you're expecting a standard pasta shape typical of the area, you're off the mark—not completely, but just enough. They have to be enjoyable; they have a completely different texture than any pasta you've ever eaten. They have a soft, spongy, and slightly springy consistency, closer to a rustic crepe cut into diamonds than actual pasta. They absorb pesto or sauce very well, so they're moist, porous, almost velvety in the mouth, with a gentle chewiness.
They have to be enjoyable. I loved them so much that I ordered two plates, reluctantly skipping the main course and dessert.
A small note about the owners (I think).
Extremely kind and helpful, you can tell they love what they do and the traditions of their land. Well done.
22/05/2026: We had lunch at this osteria yesterday and it was a wonderful experience. The testaroli were delicious, the tagliata spectacular, and the tiramisu heavenly. The staff were very kind and friendly, and the place is quaint with stone vaults. Well done guys, I recommend this place.
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