12/06/2026: 12:30 PM, Viale Monza 10, Milan
June 12
I'm driving along Viale Monza, the sun is merciless, filling every corner of the street and returning to my eyes, bouncing off the asphalt. My attempt to escape the glare by lowering my gaze is futile. I move closer to the wall as if to escape the constant din of traffic.
Viale Monza is a seaport, like a street in Naples or Calcutta. Every inch of the street is a new shop, for miles. Bars, workshops, tailors, taverns, diners, Chinese electronics stores, florists, greengrocers, Neapolitan pizzerias, interspersed with doorways, doorways, doorways. Each doorway has a house number, and each house at least three or four shops, often many more.
Despite the frenzy, there seems to be a sort of intimacy in everyone, a sense of security. The idea that everyone is there to do something, everyone is dedicated to their work. The sidewalk is wide, everyone fits in without taking up space. When I was a courier, I delivered every day on this street, at numbers 158 and 160... that's when I first met her.
Well, back in the present, as I turn my head, I catch a glimpse of a large terracotta container behind a shop window. It's dimly lit, the floor is terrazzo. An amphora? I glance further. A dark wood counter full of displayed foods, colorful vegetables, cured meats, cheeses, and pickled products. Further away, at the end, I glimpse tables with benches made of the same dark wood.
Then I look back and look up: "Osteria La Giara" I read "Apulian osteria since 1969".
I go in and eat.
03/06/2026: Excellent grilled meat and Apulian cuisine worth trying just steps from Piazzale Loreto.