“You don't interrupt an emotion”: thirty years of research and exasperated attention to the raw material
I have known Giuliano and Angela for a few years now, and time has not affected the pleasure of a visit to Vecjo Friul - I must say that, in fact, this is the only restaurant where I have brought family, friends and colleagues without distinction.
The first visit was in spring: we ate in the small outdoor space and Giuliano served cured meats and cheeses from producers whose existence I didn't even know - listening to stories of Bettella, Osvaldo, Bocchi and Bernini, I remember thinking that it was as gastronomically erudite as Umberto Eco :)
During dinner, casually hearing him talk about great Italian chefs - Marchesi, Oldani, Bartolini... it seemed crazy to me that he had worked with the biggest names in catering - I asked him to recommend a Michelin-starred restaurant in Milan. He sent me to Matias Perdomo's Contraste, and I told him I would return after trying it: so it was, and over time the visits followed one another.
A few years and a good thirty or so Stellati later, returning to Giuliano always puts me in a good mood: the contrast between the essentiality of the Vecjo Friul and the refinement of the cellar and cuisine still makes it, in my mind, perhaps the best hidden treasure preserved in Milan.
I wasn't able to learn even half the names of the cheeses and wines I tasted - although my memory, fortunately, works a little better on the cured meats front - but there wasn't an evening where I went out without at least a flavor bewitched me. And, after having explored the seasonal menus between ravioli in every guise, ossobuco, ducks, tartare, shanks and risottos, I can rightly maintain that Giuliano studies with the same passion every dish that enters the menu and every bottle added to the cellar: after many years and a few aches and pains, the love with which half of Italy strives to oversee the supply chain has remained unchanged.
In an era of palates compromised by all-you-can-eat and the unfortunate use of social media, I conclude with a handbook for customers who exhibit leonine courage in sitting in front of the keyboard - strong, on average, with a very notable ignorance and proud of having the 'low-cost binge as your north star:
- Giuliano prepares each dish with the same love and Fellini maintained that "an emotion cannot be interrupted": you are going to eat pearls sought with passion throughout the territory, so don't be in a hurry
- The Bettella Tranquillo Pork is matured for up to 70 (seventy) months and is to cured meats what Philippe Dufour is to watches: perhaps savor it for the little masterpiece that it is and save yourself the comparisons with the price of packaged raw pork that you buy at the discount store
- Sous vide cooking is used by great chefs all over the world: don't have preconceptions and enjoy the result
- Jazz evenings, in addition to being a wonderful opportunity to eat great cured meats and great cheeses, help young artists to gain visibility; However, if you don't like music, just choose a different date for dinner: they are very nice but occasional events
- A passionate host has the best wine list that exists, and the cellar that surrounds the tables can probably satisfy much more refined palates than the profane one that unfortunately I find myself in: tell Giuliano your tastes and you will certainly find a solution
- If you don't consider the bill an irrelevant factor, simply read the prices on the menu and choose wisely: you absolutely don't need to be a high spender to leave Vecjo Friul happy
- In general, however, approach this temple of gastronomy by understanding the effort that lies behind the paper
See you next visit, hoping that Giuliano's passion and Angela's contagious joy never fail!
Alessio Morelli
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22 Dicembre 2024
10,0
Excellent cuisine: excellent cheeses, cold cuts and wines.
If you like refined cheeses, here you will undoubtedly find the best, served with experience and great skill. The selection of wines is very careful. The place is small but welcoming and it often happens that you can attend beautiful jazz concerts with high-level musicians.
Dario Buseghin
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20 Dicembre 2024
10,0
I participated in a cheese tasting organized by Giuliano and one of his suppliers and it was an extraordinary experience. Giuliano has an extraordinary food and wine culture and, when he tells you about it, you can sense all his passion.
If you are looking for an authentic place (which is now rare), Vecjo Friul is for you.
Stefano Mastronardi
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18 Settembre 2024
10,0