Nangalarruni In Castelbuono

09/08/2025: A slightly critical five stars. There are some real strengths here, but it's not a perfect experience either. We tried five dishes (two starter, two pastas, one main) and the pastas were by far the strongest element. I feel like (non-Italians, at least) are constantly chasing elusive highs when it comes to pasta, where the textures and richness just come together into completely satisfying mouthfuls. Both pasta dishes we tried achieved this in different ways, for me the spaghetti was the standout. Both were elevated but not a huge departure from tradition (nor, sadly, huge portions - I could have eaten five times as much and been taken home strapped on the back of a vespa). The main was solid - grilled squid, came together nicely with the chickpea miso and other elements. I think you could probably do more with squid this good, but it's a strong dish. Oh I'll also mention the bread here - whoever is in the kitchen really gets their carbs, they're making absolutely fantastic bread as well as pasta. Where I was more skeptical was the starters. This should be the space where the kitchen is having the most fun - smaller portions and the fact that if someone doesn't like it, you have multiple courses to make them still leave happy means that you can really push the envelope if you want to. But here, the envelope remained pretty unpushed. The raw shrimp with citrus was fine, but only fine - fun presentation (I honestly thought they were baby carrots at first) but ultimately not more than the sum of its parts. The grilled onion was in theory more interesting - taking typical Sicilian ingredients and adding umami sources - but in the end there was nothing hugely unexpected about the taste and textures and you're just kind of sitting there thinking "damn, I just paid more than 20 euro for an onion". The price/quality ratio just isn't quite there for the starters - honestly just order an extra pasta for the same price. The question of fun is also important because while the service was professional and attentive, the vibe is currently dour. This is the height of the tourist season, and the restaurant is mostly empty in a Friday night, and the staff know it. That sucks, and they deserve better tbh - there is much worse food for not that much less to be found in crowded restaurants all over town. But this year at least, people are willing to pay for sea views over better food. Lastly, the wine was very good, and accommodating of ordering by the glass. Not the biggest cellar in town, but if you like your wines more natural or offbeat it's a well curated list. Overall, I'd recommend Qualia - but it probably needs to reinvent itself soon. I'd go back tonight if they agreed to sell me a bigger proportion of pasta and a glass or two of well-sourced wine, and honestly that feels more like the restaurant Cefalù needs.

08/08/2025: Had lunch here today, please go here to eat! Great food with great wine pairing! There is a reason why they are recommend in the guide michelin!