Beyond that door, the beating heart of Bolognese tradition.
There are places that don't need neon signs to be found, because it's the soul itself that guides you. On December 29, 2025, my wife Maria and I, after a journey that took us through Romagna, from Ravenna to San Marino, with Bologna as our final stop, had the privilege of discovering the trattoria on Via Boccaindosso, an authentic corner of Bologna jealously guarded behind a door, without frills, where time seems to have stood still.
The experience began thanks to my friend "Cicerone" Donato Pisciottano, a Bolognese by adoption, but originally from Salerno like us. In fact, he has an edge because he's from Cilento, specifically from the beautiful Santa Maria di Castellabate. He hosted us in the Guardia di Finanza guesthouse (his hospitality and care deserve a separate review), and he accompanied us, along with his wife Marina, to discover this Bolognese gem.
As soon as we crossed the threshold, we were greeted with the warmth and overwhelming friendliness that only these parts can offer. The owner, Gianni, is a true host from another era: frank, jovial, and with a passion for hospitality that makes you feel instantly at home.
We spent the evening chatting, laughing, and rediscovering the pleasure of true conviviality. It's been a long time since we've enjoyed such a convivial, welcoming, unhurried table, with gestures that were never intrusive, but simply attentive to our well-being at the table.
The cuisine? A hymn to tradition. We sampled typical Bolognese and Romagna dishes, cooked with genuine passion for food. We started with some mortadella and coppa di testa to warm our stomachs, then moved on to a kind of artichoke tart/pie (delicious), and a savory pie with pears and Taleggio cheese, which we tried for the first time and, unfortunately, I don't know when we'll get the chance to try it again.
After the appetizers, the handmade Tortellini in Brodo arrived, aiming to provide warmth and company, although the company was shared by two other first courses: large pumpkin tortelli with butter and sage, and the famous LASAGNA BOLOGNESE (exceptional).
Not satisfied, we moved on to the second course, and we insisted on the equally famous Cotoletta Bolognese. Another interesting discovery, since working in Milan, we've tried the Milanese cutlet many times, and between the two, I'm sorry, the Meneghina wins, albeit by a narrow margin.
There are no half measures in this trattoria: we were served a generous array of desserts, without any limitations. It must have been our gaunt faces, our bodies marked by the kilometers—nearly 40 in 5 days to see everything—that convinced Gianni to bring us a huge bowl of velvety mascarpone cream, zuppa inglese made the old-fashioned way, passing through a perfect crème caramel, an intense chocolate mousse, and the typical Bolognese rice cake.
Every bite told a story of authentic ingredients and recipes passed down with love. To accompany the dinner, an excellent Sangiovese made everything even more special.
The final gesture, then, moved me: the innkeeper, recalling his military past in Nocera Inferiore, wanted to give me a bottle of the same Sangiovese we had sipped at the table, a tangible reminder of an unforgettable evening.
Thanks also to all the staff, professional and kind, especially the lady with the glasses—I don't remember her name, but she knew how to handle two customers like us, who were visiting this restaurant for the first time, a restaurant built on a long-standing and loyal clientele. It seemed like they knew everyone.
In short, if you're looking for the real Bologna, the one made of intense flavors, sincere smiles, and heartwarming encounters, look for that door on Via Boccaindosso. You won't regret it. To the people of Romagna, I say: "Thank you for your hospitality, never change."
Venanzio Lanzara and Maria Sica
Venanzio Lanzara
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08 Gennaio 2026
10,0
This osteria, located in the center of Bologna, is the perfect place to sample local cuisine in a welcoming, family-friendly atmosphere. We ordered a platter of local cured meats, tortellini in broth and tagliatelle with ragù as our first course, and finally dessert: a rice cake, a traditional Emilian dish. We especially recommend the tortellini in broth served with generous amounts of parmesan. The staff are friendly and helpful, and the prices are moderate. Reservations are recommended, as the place is limited.
Carmen Star
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07 Gennaio 2026
10,0