It embodies the traditions of Nuoro and truly embodies the "heart of Sardinia."
Il Rifugio's ingredients, cooking methods, techniques, and hospitality were all overwhelmingly perfect.
--
🍽 Impressive Cuisine
The first dish was pane carasau.
This dish transcends the category of "bread."
I've tried about 10 different breads in Sardinia, but this is hands-down the best.
Served freshly baked with olive oil, it's fragrant, light, and captivating, with the aroma of wheat and oil rising with the steam.
The moment you put it in your mouth, it crunches,
and the next moment, it melts softly.
This dish alone is worth the visit.
The wild boar ham (prosciutto di cinghiale) that we were served next was extremely impressive in its composition.
The sweetness of the lardo (fat), the richness of the lean meat,
and the umami of the gelatinous portion (known as "jelly" in Japanese).
These three layers blended beautifully,
creating a taste that seemed to resonate between the flavors of aged meat and natural umami.
The jelly portion in particular was the first time I'd ever tasted so delicious,
and it really spoke to the depth of the artisan's craftsmanship.
And the pinnacle of excitement was the Filindeu nel brodo di pecora.
The lamb soup was rich yet crystal clear,
and the filindeu (ultra-thin, handmade noodles) clung to the soup like silk.
The unity of the soup and noodles was indescribably delicate,
a taste that couldn't be found anywhere else in Italy,
a "special taste that can only be found in Nuoro."
The main course, the mixed grill, was overwhelmingly perfect.
Different meats, including pork, beef, horse, and (presumably) lamb,
were grilled to the perfection to bring out their distinct characteristics.
Lemon was barely used,
with only a light accent to enhance the flavor of the meat itself.
The way the salt was applied, the way the fat was rendered, and the grilling technique—
everything was perfect. Despite its simplicity, I believe this is one of the best meat dishes in Italy, and even the world.
--
🍷 Wine and After-Dinner Drinks
The wine we chose was Tiscali – Nepente di Oliena DOC (Cantina Puddu) from Oliena.
This wine was recommended by a Japanese chef in the area, and it combines power and elegance, reflecting the unique character of the region.
It had the fruitiness typical of Cannonau, with minerality and soft acidity.
It was perfectly matched with the food, and the aroma of the earth filled our mouths.
To linger after the meal,
my companion ordered another glass of house wine.
I had Lawrence (a bay liqueur) and Amaro Montenegro.
Both were fragrant, with a pleasant, herbal, mild bitterness.
They were the perfect way to end our evening.
The beauty of the special glasses was also impressive, and I felt the attentive care throughout.
--
🏠 Atmosphere and People
Wrapped in wooden beams and warm lighting,
lined with old photographs and wine bottles,
it felt like stepping into Nuoro's history.
The staff were extremely kind,
and carefully explained the background of the dishes and wines.
The Japanese chef in particular was very friendly,
and his passion for "conveying culture through food" was palpable.
--
🍮 Dessert and Aftertaste
For dessert, we had three kinds of sorbet (lemon, ginger, and berry).
All of them had a strong aroma of the ingredients, and the natural sweetness gave a refreshing finish.
They were also perfectly paired with after-dinner drinks,
and the meal was perfectly composed down to the last sip.
--
🌿 The Restaurant's Popularity and Presence in the City
We visited on a Sunday.
By 8 p.m., the restaurant was nearly full.
Il Rifugio also doubles as a pizzeria,
and customers constantly come in for takeout and pickup.
Even after the first round of diners,
new customers continued to arrive to enjoy the food,
keeping the restaurant busy right up until the last order.
There were many people waiting outside for pizza,
and it truly was a scene of "a famous restaurant beloved by locals and all of Italy."
Considering how busy it was on a Sunday,
it might be even busier on Friday and Saturday nights.
I truly felt this is a truly popular restaurant, representing Nuoro and symbolizing Sardinia.
---
🍷 Looking forward to next time
It was so amazing that I'd like to try the entire menu from next time.
Appetizer
Prosciutto di pecora con ricotta e miele di castagno
Tonno scottato al Cannonau
Assaggio di salumi della Barbagia
Primo
Culurgiones con guanciale e zeste d’arancia
Raviolini di formaggio con gamberi e porcini
Pane Frattau con l’uovo
Linguine alla bottarga di muggine
second
Pecora sarda in cassola alla nuorese
Filetto di manzo al balsamico
Seppie e calamari alla griglia
dolce
Semifreddo al miele d’arancio e pecorino
Torroncino mandorle e noci
Seada al miele
wine
Nepente Classico “Carros” (Cantina Puddu)
Barrosu (Montisci)
Funtanaliras (Cantina Monti)
Tuvaoes (G. Cherchi)
This is only a partial list.
---
💬 Finally
This is a wonderful restaurant that continues to evolve every day while preserving its traditions.
The food, wine, atmosphere, and people...
All of these combined made me feel the "soul of Sardinia."
If you come to Nuoro, this is a must-visit.
Thank you, Il Rifugio!
I will definitely return, aiming to "conquer the entire menu."
Postscript:
I was truly impressed by the dish I encountered here, "Filindeu."
This traditional pasta, unique to the Nuoro region of Sardinia,
is made with just three ingredients: semolina flour, water, and salt.
Despite this, the dough is stretched and folded by hand 32 times,
finishing it into 256 ultra-fine threads, an incredible feat of skill.
The process of stacking three layers of this fibrous dough and drying them
is truly aptly described as "weaving dough."
It is said that there are fewer than 20 artisans in Italy who can make this,
and it was once called the "thread of the gods," a dish only available to pilgrims.
I was truly surprised to learn that it is now served in limited quantities in local restaurants,
not just at religious events.
I believe it is not just a local dish, but a symbol of Sardinian culture itself.
The fact that it has continued to be made to this day is something of a miracle,
and I am truly happy to have come across this dish.
ensei mania
.
07 Ottobre 2025
10,0