Trattoria Alimentari Madda In Neirone

NOT CLOSED (October 25). Alba is a person from another era, with a simplicity, practicality, and generosity that touch the heart. Together with her sister (a century and a half between them), she runs a grocery store and trattoria that keeps alive the hospitality of a village that's not easy to live in. If you want to enjoy her authentic, homely cuisine (the ravioli and tagliolini we sampled deserve top marks), book a few days in advance so she can do the shopping and welcome you without fear of feeling like she's not welcome. I called her on Sunday morning for lunch, and she explained to me that she had nothing but a few ravioli and potatoes at short notice, but she made herself available anyway so we wouldn't miss our trip. She welcomed my father, my son, and me with a spirit that I could describe as touching, and with dishes (the one she had for herself and her sister) that took us back to the flavors of that great cook that was my grandmother. We'll be back with the rest of the tribe!