Ermete dal 1931 In Trevignano romano

Review of the Bar Ermete, Piazza Vittorio Emanuele III, 8-9, Trevignano, 00069 Roma. First some background to the Bar Ermete. It’s in Trevignano a small rural town – home to around 5,000 people. The town is a delightful place in which to spend time and, not least, because it fronts the northern shore of Lago Bracciano. It is less than 60 km from Rome (so, little more than an hour by car from most places) and, crucially, in modern times, it has enthusiastically embraced tourism with all that this has meant for pleasure – fine places to stay, restaurants/bars that cater for all kinds of tastes/budgets and the lazy attraction of beach life – the clarity, freshness and exuberance of swimming (or playing with the kids) in the lake. We’ve been travelling there for more years than we like to think - and we’ll continue to do so. The town/area has developed with a sense of tradition and history that embraces the Etruscans, then domination by Rome and, subsequently, experienced the feuding/wars by the different Italian/Roman aristocratic families/sects through the Medieval years with or without the involvement of the different Papacies. The remains of the small castle in Trevignano and the much larger residential castle in Bracciano date from this period. Check out the earlier review of Aug17 – seven years and counting - and you’ll see reference to the Bar Ermete in the context of the 800-year-old scavi above the borgo, and the ease/comfort of taking the 30 minutes’ walk to the ruins from the Bar Ermete or finishing there - or do both. Take breakfast/coffee&cornetti on the patio outside the bar and, an hour and half later, stopover on the return for a delicious gelato (or morning coffee). Your walk will take you on a circuit of the Centro Storico – enter through the town gate with the clock tower immediately next to the Bar Ermete, climb through the narrow streets to the Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta and, around the back of the church, take the modern stepped footpath (with lights for an evening walk) up to the walls that remain of the scavi. The town faces south and enjoys a mild climate throughout the year. Trevignano’s lake-front walkway, is about 2 km long and is filled with gardens and bistros; it’s one of the most pleasant places to spend a few hours around Lake Bracciano. In recent years the beaches to the west of the Centro Storico have been further commercialized with the concessionary licencing that provides beds/umbrellas/space (and restricts casual private use of the beach space to walking along the water line). And then there is the Bar Ermete in context. It’s at the centre point where the ancient borgo meets the modern town. Sit outside under the umbrellas in the Piazza V. Emanuele III with the lake to one side, the modern town in front of you and there’s a sense of historical continuity from the life around you – vehicles crossing the piazza, people coming/going through the town gate/clock tower next to the bar and, not least regulars/visitors looking for coffee/brioche/gelato/social chat in the Bar Ermete. All this, of course, simply provides a glimpse of the Bar Ermete. This is your typical Italian bar strategically located - one side of the main piazza in the centre of town, the borgo climbing the hill behind. There’s a large room inside with seating for >20 people. It is popular in winter. The service counter is around two sides with all the extras that are found in well-established bars/cafes – gifts, chocolates, wine and more. Towards the front of the room facing the piazza is a gelateria. There are chairs/tables/umbrellas spilling out over the pavement in front of the bar - busy for much of the year. Typically, we sat outside with our gelati; E2.50/cone or coppa/two choices. ‘Lick quickly’ became an essential modus operandi with ambient afternoon temperatures in Aug24 around the high 30s & low 40s deg C. When we were not carrying water with us, we purchased 1.50 L bottle from the bar – it came with cups & ice. Bar Ermete’s gelato was DELICIOUS – perhaps 20-24 choices from which to choose, with the friendly Capo/Gelataio providing ‘tastes’ for kids who were not certain of the flavour. (The little ones needed to be lifted-up to enable them to see into the gelato tubs.) In many respects a seat on the piazza in front of the Bar Ermete in the cool of the early evening – after sunset and before the night claims the view of the lake – epitomizes the delight of being in Italy. All those times, paese, bars, cappuccini, brioche, gelati and, equally, the people with whom we have shared those experiences. The Bar Ermete comes highly recommended. Peter Steele 22 October 2024

Quaint coffee, cake, restaurant , bar. Centrally located. Helpful staff. Great atmosphere. Best soy cappuccino ever