05/11/2025: A corner of paradise in the charming town of Mariglianella.
Location – Score 10: Located on one of the most iconic streets of the Agro-Nolano area, now embellished by the planting of countless pygmy oleanders. A "green" flagship for the entire Campania region. Exclusive corner-rotunda location, 360° views of the post-industrial skyline fading toward the DIY acropolis. Breathtaking and a Mecca for tourists.
Ambience – Score 9.5: Missing a 10 out of 10 because it fails to fully conceal the obsessive pursuit of elegance, spasmodically pursued through its annihilation. The Nana oak barrel tables are extremely sumptuous in their excessive minimalism. The table setting enriches the setting with Individual-style "tassels" made from cellulose extracted from ancient Sequoia and Baobab wood. Overall, the decor is a mix of Baroque and Provençal styles.
Food – Score 10: A promise sometimes kept, that of the "bruschetta del forse." Creaks of times gone by, recounted by warm, then cooled bread. A flash of acidity, the oil of memory. When they don't arrive, they are a conceptual, whispered gesture. The evaporated command becomes a subtraction that sublimates into the poetry of oblivion. A quantum experience, both present and absent.
A hymn to conscious subtraction in their legendary pasta with potatoes and mussels: The potato becomes a telluric cream, enveloping the pasta in a silky creaminess, while the three bivalve clams (a Zen gesture, savory numerology) grafts marine verticality with pungent touches of iodine. A broad, deep bite, with a lingering finish reminiscent of the surf at sunset.
Their pork chops are cooked to a mi-cuit par excellence: the exterior, finely Maillard-style, hints of caramel; the center, pink and succulent, conceals, yet reveals, the art of moderate heat. Gentle fibers, regal juiciness, a flavorful rhythm that alternates noble fattiness and haematic returns of rare elegance. A dish that breathes.
Perfect geometry, a crispness that crackles when bitten, a soft and airy core. This is the essence of their most popular side dish. Cryopreservation of the potatoes preserves the tuber's character: each stick is a small theorem of texture, with a clean, crisp, almost didactic finish. High-altitude comfort.
The collagen in the rind rises, finally, to a gastronomic velvet. The sauce, made with tomato, elegantly translucent, illuminates without covering: an umami caress that lingers between peasant memories and spoonful couture. Surprising length, meditative chewing, complete satisfaction.
A journey that celebrates the luxury of the essential: four chapters, a single choral voice of pleasure.
Service – Grade 10 with Honors
The ancient Japanese philosophy of Ma finds its highest expression in service. The final exaltation of something is, therefore, the very absence of that something. She, the imperishable vestal of sacred procrastination, as well as the feminine embodiment of the arrow of Zeno's paradox. The mastery with which the Maître d' manages to render herself evanescent and ethereal, like a mirage, grants diners the ability to transcend the meal through an introspective journey of self-discovery and the very meaning of the fabric of time and space that permeates everything.
21/10/2025: We were just passing through the area and weren't expecting much, but in the end, we ate wonderfully. The first course was sensational, arriving still piping hot. The prices were super competitive, the place was quiet, and the girl who served us was very nice.
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